thefoodlessprocessed

“Almost every Southern European country seems to have its own mixed vegetable dish like ratatouille…” (Margaret Costa from Four Seasons Cookery Book (1970).

“One thinks of a stew as a variety of foodstuffs cooked in sauce;..the genial ratatouille, whose vegetables, intact but purée-tender, are cloaked in a syrupy reduction of their own abundant juices, correspond[s] nicely to that concept.” (Richard Olney from Simple French Food (1974).

Good quality vegetables make the most “genial” ratatouille. Eggplants come in a number of types, the most common being the large, deep purple globe variety. Its flesh can become spongy as it matures. If available, small- to medium-sized striped eggplants are a good choice. They tend to be firmer and sauté particularly well. Unlike many versions of ratatouille, the eggplant in this one is not salted to draw out the excess water. Instead, it is cut in small cubes and cooked very slowly, covered, until it is tender and browned.

A couple of large, ripe heirloom or several dry-farmed tomatoes are a good addition. But, lacking these, preserved ones do just fine.

The less processed ingredient options are: Vegetables, Basil, Fresh Tomatoes or Preserved Tomatoes, and Olive Oil.

Equipment

• a Large Heavy Pan with High Sides and a Lid. This recipe is made with a 12-inch (30.5 cm) Cast Iron Chicken Fryer with a 4.25 quart capacity (about 4 liters). A close European equivalent is a Sauteuse Haute, which has high sides and a long handle. It is deeper than a regular sauté pan.
• a Flame Tamer (aka Heat Diffuser, Simmering Plate). The pot does not sit directly over the heat source. The vegetables are less likely to scorch as they simmer and cook down slowly. Some versions of flame tamers are compatible with a smooth-top burner.
• a Turner
• a Slotted Spoon and a Medium-Sized-Bowl

Ingredients

• 2 or 3 cups of Eggplant, peeled and cut into small cubes: Striped Eggplants are a good choice if they are available and fresh (that is, firm with no brown spots).
• 1 cup of Organic Yellow Onion, cubed
• 4 large Garlic Cloves, minced
• 3 small- or medium-sized Organic Zucchini, cut in small cubes
• 1 cup of Organic Red Bell Pepper, cut in small cubes
• a stem of Fresh Genovese Basil and several Tablespoons of Fresh Genovese Basil Leaves, cut in fine slivers just before adding them to the cooked ratatouille
• 1 cup of Organic Fresh Heirloom or Dry-Farmed Tomato, in small cubes or about 1 cup of Imported Italian Chopped or Finely Chopped Boxed Tomatoes
• Freshly Ground Black Pepper
• about 6 Tablespoons of Extra-Virgin Olive Oil or as needed
• 1/2 cup of Dry White Wine and maybe a little more if any bits of eggplant or vegetable stick to the bottom of the pan as they are being sautéed.
  

Making the Ratatouille

• Heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in the pan, set on a flame tamer over medium heat, and add the eggplant cubes. Cover the pan and cook the cubes over medium low heat, turning them occasionally, until they are golden brown in places and tender. Add some olive oil if the pan becomes dry, or, if a few bits stick to the bottom of the pan, pour in a little white wine, scraping up the bits with a turner as though deglazing. Transfer the eggplant with a slotted spoon to the bowl and set it aside.
• Heat 2 additional tablespoons of olive oil in the pan. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to brown at the edges.
• Add the Stem of Basil and cook, stirring for a minute.
• Add the red pepper cubes and cook, stirring, for 2 or 3 minutes. If at any point the pan appears dry, add a little more olive oil. If bits of vegetable stick to the bottom of the pan, add a little white wine, scraping them up.
• Add the zucchini cubes and cook for about 10 minutes.
• Add the white wine to the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring, until the wine is reduced noticeably and becoming a bit syrupy.
• Add the fresh tomato cubes or boxed tomatoes.
• Return the eggplant to the pan and mix everything together well. Grind some black pepper over all.

• Cover the pan and simmer the mixture on the flame tamer over medium low heat until all the vegetables are tender and but still hold their shape. Remove the lid and cook down the juices until they are thick and syrupy. An estimate of the cooking time is 1 hour.
• Remove the stem of basil. Add the strips of freshly cut basil leaves just before serving.